BIRD CARE BASICS

Your bird is totally dependant on you for all its care. You are responsible for providing: A home, food, clean conditions, entertainment, safety, health care, and love! A properly cared for bird will provide years of enjoyment. Here's some basic information about bird care, but this is just a beginning. If you are truly serious about providing your bird with the best possible care then you should buy a good bird book about bird care, purchase a subscription to a bird magazine, or join a bird club. The following is provided as a general guide and for informational purposes only.

A HOME

CAGE: The size will depend on the type of bird and how active it is. Small, active birds like finches need a larger cage in proportion to their size than a big, slower moving bird like a Macaw.

Minimum cage sizes:

· FINCH - 16" wide x 16" tall x 16" deep for 2 birds.

· PARAKEET, LOVEBIRD or PARROTLET - 16" wide x 20" tall x 16" deep; larger for a pair.

· SMALL-SIZED PARROT (Cockatiel, Senegal , Meyers, Caique, Pionus, etc.) - 20" wide x 25" tall x 20" deep.

· MEDIUM-SIZED PARROT (Indian Ringneck, Goffin, Amazon, Mini Macaw, etc.) - 24" wide x 36' tall x 22" deep.

· LARGE-SIZED PARROT (Macaw, Umbrella, Moluccan) - 32" wide x 50" tall x 24" deep.

Except for the finch cage, all cage sizes are for pet birds that are allowed exercise time out of the cage. The cage should be larger if you have a pair of birds that are not tame and do not spend time out of the cage. Be cautious of cage wire spacing so that your bird does not get caught in cage wires or escapes. Remember these sizes are minimum and the larger the cage the happier your bird will be.

LOCATION: Make sure that the cage is NOT in direct sunlight or in a cold draft. Place the cage near a closed window in indirect sunlight. Also, pet birds need at least 10 hours of sleep at night so their cage needs to be placed where they will not be disturbed after "lights out". Even if you cover the cage, some of the light and any noises can still keep your bird awake if the cage is kept in a busy room that is active late at night (people talking, TV on, etc.).

PERCHES: Use the right size dowel or natural branch for the size of your bird's foot. It should be big enough in diameter that their back and front toes don't meet when holding on to the perch. If you use natural branches make sure that they have not been sprayed with pesticides. Scrub he branches with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, and dry in the sun. Eucalyptus, manzanita, fruit and citrus trees are all safe to be used (no avocado branches).

· DON'T use sandpaper covers on the perches.

· DON'T put so many perches in the cage that the bird doesn't have room to flap its wings!

FOOD

People used to feed only seed to their birds, but that's not enough for good health. Remember, dried seeds are only available for short periods of time in nature, and wild finches and parrots eat lots of other things. Take the time to research exactly what kinds of foods are best for your bird.

Here are some suggestions:

SEED: Birds do need some seed, just not as their only food. Be sure to buy the right size and type of seed for your bird: the bag should say what type of bird should eat it. Millet sprays are a favorite treat for all sizes and types of seed-eating birds, from finches to Macaws! Soaked or spouted seeds are a great treat, but learn how to do it the right way. Moldy sprouted seeds can make your bird sick!

PELLETED BIRD DIET: This type of food provides protein, vitamins and minerals. Feed pellets separately from seed: most parrots will not eat their pellets if seed is available at the same time. Although pellets are a much better diet than seed alone, pellets are not a complete diet either. They should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables.

FRUITS & VEGETABLES: Your bird should get fresh fruits and vegetables every day. Finches, canaries, parakeets and cockatiels love greens like kale, endive, romaine, parsley, cilantro, or the tops from carrots, a wedge of apple or orange, and will eat the soft center from a slice of yellow squash or cucumber. Try a wide variety of vegetables and fruits for parrots - anything that is in season (except avocado!). Be sure to wash all fruits and vegetables and rinse thoroughly before feeding them to your bird. Throw away any uneaten food at the end of the day. For example; strawberries, apples, pears (remove all black seeds as some can be harmful), grapes, beets, corn on the cob, zucchini, broccoli, green beans, carrots and bananas, sliced with peel.

COOKED FOODS: There are many prepackaged diets that can be cooked up and served warm, NOT hot, to your parrot. Also, parrots love to eat "people food" and most of the things that we eat are good for them. Try scrambled eggs, whole grain bread with or without peanut butter, any kind of pasta cooked or raw, mashed potatoes, sweet potato, oven baked french fries, macaroni and cheese, or stir fry noodles. Soak & Cook and other cooked beans are an excellent nutrition source. Avoid foods that are deep fried or are heavily salted. Birds have not evolved to properly digest dairy foods, so items that contain cheese, milk or sour cream should be fed in small amounts only once in a while. Remove cooked foods from the cage after 4 hours, sooner if the weather is hot, to prevent bacteria from growing in the food and making your bird sick.

TREATS: Plain popcorn, unsweetened cereals (like Cheerios), nuts, pancakes, waffles, 17 grain wheat bread, uncooked pasta, Goldfish crackers, dried fruit (banana chips, raisins, etc.), and millet sprays are great treats. Do not feed sweets, chocolate, caffeine, avocado or alcohol.

WATER: Change daily, more often if really dirty. Some birds, like finches, need a shallow water dish for bathing that is separate from their drinking water. Avoid putting the water dish under a perch to prevent dirtying the water with "poop". Make sure that the water dish is where the bird can reach it conveniently.

SUPPLEMENTS: If your bird is eating pellets as well as seed, fresh and cooked foods, then additional vitamins aren't really necessary on a regular basis. However, some types of birds need extra calcium (like African Greys) and birds that are breeding need added vitamins and minerals. If you do give vitamins use the powdered kind that can be added to their soft foods. Veterinarians recommend that you do not put vitamins in water, as this is the least cost-effective way to get vitamins to your bird and can promote harmful bacterial growth in the water.

Calcium can be supplied in liquid form or by putting cuttlebone or mineral block in the cage or by adding powdered calcium to food.

HYGIENE

CLEAN THE CAGE! Along with a balanced diet, providing clean conditions for your bird ensures a long and healthy life. Be sure to clean your bird's cage on a daily basis. Feather dust and dander is as bad for them as it is for us, so vacuum regularly.

A disinfectant such as a dilute bleach solution or Pet Focus can be used to sanitize the cage at least once a month, but make sure that the bird isn't still in it! Wash the cage with soap and water first to remove the dirt, then sponge or spray the disinfectant. Be sure to rinse thoroughly with water and dry in the sun before putting your bird back in his cage. Some disinfectants can be harmful if you breathe the fumes, or if it touches your skin, so read the directions for use carefully and work in a well-ventilated area.

GROOMING: We all take baths, and so should your bird. Soap is not necessary, but you can mist your bird with warm water and some birds enjoy showering with their owner. Be sure that you do this early enough in the day so they can dry before "lights out" and avoid cold air blowing on them when they are wet.

Clipping wings and nails is also part of grooming and should be done every 60 - 90 days. Long nails should be clipped so they don't catch on toys, cage bars or clothing, they can also scratch you or make it impossible to have proper control of your bird. Wings should be clipped if your bird is taken out of its cage, especially outside. Even the most well trained bird can become startled and will instinctively attempt to fly. Have your bird’s wings and nails clipped regularly and properly by a bird specialist or bird veterinarian. It is not advisable for you to do this yourself as your bird does not like having this done and could bite, will probably hold a grudge, and there is a possibility of doing it incorrectly and causing injury or excessive bleeding.

ENTERTAINMENT

The best entertainment for a tame pet bird is to be with you! Spend time with your bird, teach it some tricks or to talk, take it to places where it can socialize with other bird lovers. If your bird is not tame, then another bird of the same species as a buddy will keep them happy.

TOYS: Birds are intelligent and can become bored with the same toys, so have several and rotate them every month. DON'T go overboard, hang two or three in the cage, not so many that there is no room to move! Wooden toys that are designed to be chewed and destroyed are favorites.

Provide inexpensive toys like cardboard paper towel tubes, clean wooden spoons, wooden spools, etc. Check the toys for safety - don't use nylon rope, avoid chain toys with openings large enough for the bird's head to go through or small enough to trap a toe, make sure that bells are sturdy enough to withstand the strong beak of a small to large parrot, avoid metal or wire that is galvanized or contains zinc as these are toxic and it is absorbed through the skin and mouth.

SAFETY

Your bird's safety is your responsibility, especially if you take your tame pet out of the cage for exercise and play time. Here are some hazards to watch out for:

· DO NOT USE ITEMS TREATED WITH NON-STICK SURFACE (TEFLON, etc.). Fumes from overheated non-stick cookware can kill in seconds! Other items such as irons and heaters may have a non-stick surface so read labels carefully.

· Don't burn scented candles or candles with lead in the wick - fumes kill.

· Don't use aerosols, sprays (bug spray, hair spray, air cleaners, Fabreeze, plug in air fresheners etc.), or products that create fumes (like oven cleaners) around your bird - they can kill.

· Do not attach mite protectors to birds cage.

· Don't smoke around your birds, wash hands after smoking. Nicotine is deadly to birds.

· Don't allow your bird out of its cage when cooking. Kitchens can be dangerous places. Cover any pots containing water or oil.

· Fireplaces can be dangerous for birds - hot coals can severely bum tender feet.

· Make sure that your bird can't walk or fly into the fireplace, and has a flush fitting screen or door.

· Close the toilet lid and cover open pans or buckets of water to prevent drowning.

· Supervise visits with small children or animals (especially dogs and cats).

· Rough play can lead to injury or death. The bacteria in a cat's mouth and on its claws is deadly to birds; even a minor scratch can lead to infection and death. Take you bird to a bird veterinarian if injured by a cat or dog.

· If you allow your bird to walk on the floor be sure to watch where you put your feet. Remember, rocking chairs and recliners can be deadly.

· Supervise your bird when it is out of its cage - they are as inquisitive as a 2 year old child and can get into just as much trouble!

· Chewing on electrical wires can be a "shocking" experience, and medications in an unattended purse or closet can poison.

· If you have more than one pet bird, especially if they are different sizes, closely supervise interactions. Larger birds have been known to severely injure or kill smaller birds.

· If you allow your bird to fly in the house for exercise, be sure to cover windows and mirrors, and lock the doors or keep it in a room that does not have direct access to the outdoors. Also, turn off fans (table-type and ceiling-type) when the bird is out. We highly recommend that the wings be trimmed on a regular basis.

· Keep your bird in a carrier when outside the house or in the car. A bird on the shoulder can easily startle and be injured, or cause you to lose control of the car when driving.

· If you have houseplants, make sure that they have not been treated with pesticides, especially if your bird wants to sample them.

· Certain plants may be toxic to birds - check a safe list before allowing your birds to nibble on them.

· Protect your bird from escaping. Clip the wings regularly and check them before taking them outside. DON'T walk out the door with your bird on your shoulder unless you know that all the primaries are properly clipped!

HEALTH CARE

Your bird's health is your responsibility. Good nutrition and hygiene are essential. But there are times when that isn't enough.

· Make sure that you have access to a veterinarian who is trained and knowledgeable in bird care. An annual check-up is a good thing.

· Wash your hands before handling your bird or items in the cage, and don't let your bird nibble your lips or take food out of your mouth. The normal bacteria on your hands and in your mouth can make them sick.

· Make sure your bird gets enough sleep - non-breeding pet birds need a minimum of 10 hours of sleep. Keeping your bird's cage in a room with loud noises (such as the TV), even with a cage cover, doesn't let them get enough sleep. Like us, a bird that doesn't get enough good quality sleep can be cranky or even unhealthy.

· Just like us, birds need access to natural sunlight for good health. Make sure that they are in a secure cage, and place the cage out of the direct sun or make sure that part of the cage is shaded. Early morning or late afternoon sun is best.

· Keep some type of styptic powder (like Kwik Stop) on hand in the event your bird breaks a blood feather, cracks its beak or breaks a nail. If bleeding does not stop, and it is a feather that may have to be removed, contact a bird specialist or bird veterinarian immediately.

· Pay attention to the signs of illness in a bird - fluffed up, sitting motionless on the perch for long periods or sitting on the cage bottom, runny eyes, runny nose, excessive sneezing, wheezing, a change in their "voice", or difficulty breathing. If you see any of these signs, quarantine them from other birds and take to your bird veterinarian immediately.